usalight.com for a great price). The can lights rank up there along with the 180 degree bi-fold door hardware for highest bang-for-our-buck. Now that it’s evening, I can see they are definitely going to need a dimmer! Installation wasn’t bad, about 5 hours total, including prep and cleanup. Total cost… under $100.
Corey Barnes has been hard at work for the last couple weeks painting the exterior of the house. He saved the rear deck area for last, and it was pretty complex with all the columns and the railings. This gave me time to build the final 16 foot tall column wrap, which really helps complete the space. Once painted, I was able to cut and install my cap rails, which really help break up all the white, and ties the railing in with the deck. I had to include a picture of the front porch as it is still one of my favorites spots of the house, it has a lot of the key design elements all in one place: the cedar ceiling, the wrapped column, the window trim and the window muntins, the lights, the door with dentil rail, the raised deck… etc. Enjoy the pics.
Photo Gallery]To finish off the traditional trim-work in the house, we wanted to dress up the windows with more than the builder standard drywall wrap. Our design includes a horned stool, apron, side casings, and header that stands just a little proud of the sides.
PARR Lumber delivered all my Radiata Pine (Windsor 1) casing stock and MDF trim in 16 foot lengths, so rather than let it sit on the garage floor to be kicked around and dinged, we cut it up into rough lengths and packaged all the pieces for each window together. Now I can just unwrap one window’s worth of material at a time and get to work.
The casings are pocket screwed together and then shimmed and nailed in place. The trim boards follow to finish off the unit. The largest window is 8’x6′ – but the jam-extension box seemed much larger as I was maneuvering it through my house! The stool was 101.5 inches long! Over that long of a span my 1974 ranch’s less than planar walls became all to evident. Some cosmetic wall surgery and creative scribing was required to get a nice snug fit of all the trim pieces.
I have a total of 7 interior casings to complete, and completed the 3 public-space windows this weekend. 4 to go…
detailed drawings and step-by-step instructions for preparing the material and assembling the wraps and railing. The railing system consists of both wrapped and unwrapped posts, the wraps cover all the pressure-treated (PT) 6×6 posts, and the 4×4 posts serve as intermediate posts ensure a rigid railing. The design for the columns borrow several elements from the early 1900’s Craftsman homes of Portland [Column Gallery] The railing itself is a more traditional style, mostly following the construction described by Scott Schuttner in Building a Deck. A few pictures are featured in the text below, but there are many more that capture some of the details in the [Columns and Railing Gallery]. [More…]
Vernon showed up on the fourth day, just in time to help with the rather complicated glue-up of the 4th sides. With 12 biscuits and about 16 screws a piece, working with the taller wraps was much easier with a third person. Pulling the joints tight with the parallel clamps, we secured them with screws and moved on to the next wrap. Lastly, we installed the 4th side of the crown, and then glued up the bases. The bases were a bit tricky, as they were 10 3/4″ tall, and fit with biscuited miter joints. If you don’t plane your material yourself, you are likely to run into some difficulty with the miters – as we did. Some of the 5/4 stock had cupped slightly, causing the miters not to line up exactly. With some judicious use of clamps and screws, we were able to pull them in for a pretty snug fit. If I were to do this again, I would definitely plane the stock to be used for the mitered pieces first. To ease assembly, we glued up pairs of boards, and then assembled the two halves after the glue had dried. We tacked them together with a finish nailer while the glue dried, and secured them to the wraps with 4 8d HDG finish nails on the 2 sides where the railings would attach, the other two sides “floated”.
That’s it for Part 1, in Part 2 I’ll cover the finishing details: the bunging, the clear cedar cap rail, the base cap and minor crown, the short column caps, and the final prep for paint.
no images were found[Photo Gallery] Despite some extra help from dvh3 and an 8-32 screw, I managed to finish applying the poly to the drawer fronts. The last of the hardware arrived today. We spent the last couple of nights attaching the drawer fronts and installing the last bits of hardware. It’s finally done! It’s been over a year since we started tearing the old bathroom out to carve out the laundry closet, but it’s been worth it. Both the laundry room and the bathroom have exceeded my initial expectations. There are of course a couple things I would do differently, as is the case with every project, but we are very happy with the results.
Key Changes in this design:
- Eliminated bump out into garage (reduces width by 2 feet)
- Range moved from corner to garage wall
- Changed pantry cabinets to bases and uppers with a counter (right of fridge)
I’ve included a couple renderings of the latest kitchen design, one with cherry and one with painted cabinets (the island is white in both). A couple of points left for discussion include:
- Range placement along the garage wall (all the way to the right, or right in the middle)
- Counter space or full pantry to the right of the refrigerator
- Corner cabinet configuration
Feel free to leave a comment and let us know what you think.
More cabinet pics. The weather turned wet and very cold, so I could no longer do the finishing in the garage – which turned out alright as the garage isn’t well suited for finishing anyway (it’s very dusty). Mary Lou has been very tolerant of me turning the master bedroom into my finishing booth – so long as I get the last coat of the day done early enough that she doesn’t have to inhale solvents all night long :-) I definitely learned a lesson in the experience – let SprayKote do the finishing. They’re equipped for it and they do great work – it just takes me too long to get an hour here and hour there so I can apply each of the six total coats required, not to mention the 5 sandings and various buffings in between! So the drawer fronts are finish sanded, cleaned, and have one side and the edges stained. I hope to be able to install the drawer faces by the end of next weekend – marking the completion of the master bath! More bath pics Wish me luck.
Rockler for the tips, as well as Bob Flexner, author of Understanding Wood Finishing. More pics when the doors and drawer fronts are ready…
Emerson Hardwood and got started on the bathroom cabinetry (the vanity and linen cabinets).
Step 1: Plane the material to a uniform thickness. My neighbor was kind enough to lend me his planer – again. We put brand new blades in it and it did a fine job taking everything down to 3/4″. Rough lumber can be tricky to rip to width for a couple reasons. First, it doesn’t have a straight edge to start with, and most of us don’t have jointers with 8 foot beds. Second, the full width boards still have some pretty powerful internal stresses that like to come out as you’re ripping them into narrower pieces. To address the first issue, I simply ran each board through the tablesaw with its concave side sistered up to an 8 foot long straight piece of cedar I had lying around, with a little stop at the leading edge to help make sure they pushed through together. For the second issue… well… there isn’t a lot you can do except rip things a little wide and hope you can take out any new twists with the planer.
Once ripped to a 1/16″ oversize, I ran all my stock on edge through the thickness planer a couple times. This removed all the saw marks (which I think are inevitable on rough lumber) and made all the like pieces exactly the same width. I then took a moment to make sure my miter saw was setup at an exact 90 degrees, and started the process of cutting the pieces for the face frame to length, starting with the longest ones, and finishing up with the short ones.
I decided to follow the advice I have heard so often and assemble the face frames with pocket screws and no glue. I figure worst case I can add the glue later. Having planed everything myself, made using pocket screws a lot easier than trying to use pre-planed lumber (which isn’t always all the same thickness). The vice grips held the pieces tight, and it went together pretty quickly. The end result was square and nearly perfectly flush on all joints. Unfortunately, I didn’t account for quite enough waste, and will have to rip 6 more feet of 2″ stock for the face frame of the linen cabinet. The vanity face frame however, is done!
George Morlan we picked up a simple bare-bones regular height (for the many children queued up to use it) elongated bowl (for the one male child queued up to use it) Toto toilet. It took me much longer than planned to install due to my rather … sub-optimal … existing closet ring, but I got it done (and done right). It’s survived its first day, here’s to wishing my $5 plunger (a non-critical purchase) a pleasant behind-the-utility-sink-dust-covered retirement.