Check out the full story with pictures at Devon’s Bed on Lumberjocks.
As those of you who let me clutter your Facebook “Wall” already know, I recently completed a tack trunk for a friend at work. A tack trunk is a horsey box used to carry horsey thingies – boots, brushes, wraps, quilts – but not the saddle (at least not for Alexis who commissioned this piece. After seeing several expensive tack trunks fall apart at the seems (or the hinge, or the plys) she asked me to build her one that would hold up to the abuse common to life in a barn and the back of a pickup trunk. We picked up some plans from Elite Tack Design for the basic dimensions – but that’s as far as I followed the plans.
Tack trunks appear to fail in two common ways. The piano hinge which is screwed into the plys of the rear panel and must support a heavy lid will pull out the screws, or torque the wire out of shape. Any exposed ply edges, particularly along the bottom, will eventually delaminate and chip off. Some will even simply break at a seam. To avoid this I chose to build Alexis’ trunk out of marine grade mahogany panel stock with solid mahogany corner posts and edge banding. I biscuited every joint I could get a biscuit to fit in. I used non-removable-pin door hinges in lieu of the piano hinge to support the now extra heavy lid (mahogany is much heavier than birch). I installed 3 sacrificial cedar “runners” along the bottom of the trunk, hidden behind the base trim to keep the trunk off the ground, allowing air to flow underneath. All the hardware is solid brass with the exception of lid stays which also contain heavy springs to assist lifting the lid as well as hold the lid open passed about 30 degrees. I used waterproof glue on all the joints. It’s finished with 2 coats of sanding sealer (wax free shellac) and 2 coats of gloss marine spar varnish.
It took a lot more time and material than either of us had expected, but it was a really enjoyable project, and I’m very proud of the results. More importantly, Alexis is thrilled, and was the star of the barn when she finally carried it to it’s new home (with some help… it’s rather heavy).
Shopsmith says there are 3 things that cause a humming motor, all factory repair jobs. They forgot the fourth – pull the motor, take it apart, clean the contacts, blow the dust out, get back to building cabinets!
usalight.com for a great price). The can lights rank up there along with the 180 degree bi-fold door hardware for highest bang-for-our-buck. Now that it’s evening, I can see they are definitely going to need a dimmer! Installation wasn’t bad, about 5 hours total, including prep and cleanup. Total cost… under $100.
Corey Barnes has been hard at work for the last couple weeks painting the exterior of the house. He saved the rear deck area for last, and it was pretty complex with all the columns and the railings. This gave me time to build the final 16 foot tall column wrap, which really helps complete the space. Once painted, I was able to cut and install my cap rails, which really help break up all the white, and ties the railing in with the deck. I had to include a picture of the front porch as it is still one of my favorites spots of the house, it has a lot of the key design elements all in one place: the cedar ceiling, the wrapped column, the window trim and the window muntins, the lights, the door with dentil rail, the raised deck… etc. Enjoy the pics.
Photo Gallery]To finish off the traditional trim-work in the house, we wanted to dress up the windows with more than the builder standard drywall wrap. Our design includes a horned stool, apron, side casings, and header that stands just a little proud of the sides.
PARR Lumber delivered all my Radiata Pine (Windsor 1) casing stock and MDF trim in 16 foot lengths, so rather than let it sit on the garage floor to be kicked around and dinged, we cut it up into rough lengths and packaged all the pieces for each window together. Now I can just unwrap one window’s worth of material at a time and get to work.
The casings are pocket screwed together and then shimmed and nailed in place. The trim boards follow to finish off the unit. The largest window is 8’x6′ – but the jam-extension box seemed much larger as I was maneuvering it through my house! The stool was 101.5 inches long! Over that long of a span my 1974 ranch’s less than planar walls became all to evident. Some cosmetic wall surgery and creative scribing was required to get a nice snug fit of all the trim pieces.
I have a total of 7 interior casings to complete, and completed the 3 public-space windows this weekend. 4 to go…
detailed drawings and step-by-step instructions for preparing the material and assembling the wraps and railing. The railing system consists of both wrapped and unwrapped posts, the wraps cover all the pressure-treated (PT) 6×6 posts, and the 4×4 posts serve as intermediate posts ensure a rigid railing. The design for the columns borrow several elements from the early 1900’s Craftsman homes of Portland [Column Gallery] The railing itself is a more traditional style, mostly following the construction described by Scott Schuttner in Building a Deck. A few pictures are featured in the text below, but there are many more that capture some of the details in the [Columns and Railing Gallery]. [More…]
Vernon showed up on the fourth day, just in time to help with the rather complicated glue-up of the 4th sides. With 12 biscuits and about 16 screws a piece, working with the taller wraps was much easier with a third person. Pulling the joints tight with the parallel clamps, we secured them with screws and moved on to the next wrap. Lastly, we installed the 4th side of the crown, and then glued up the bases. The bases were a bit tricky, as they were 10 3/4″ tall, and fit with biscuited miter joints. If you don’t plane your material yourself, you are likely to run into some difficulty with the miters – as we did. Some of the 5/4 stock had cupped slightly, causing the miters not to line up exactly. With some judicious use of clamps and screws, we were able to pull them in for a pretty snug fit. If I were to do this again, I would definitely plane the stock to be used for the mitered pieces first. To ease assembly, we glued up pairs of boards, and then assembled the two halves after the glue had dried. We tacked them together with a finish nailer while the glue dried, and secured them to the wraps with 4 8d HDG finish nails on the 2 sides where the railings would attach, the other two sides “floated”.
That’s it for Part 1, in Part 2 I’ll cover the finishing details: the bunging, the clear cedar cap rail, the base cap and minor crown, the short column caps, and the final prep for paint.
no images were found[Photo Gallery] Despite some extra help from dvh3 and an 8-32 screw, I managed to finish applying the poly to the drawer fronts. The last of the hardware arrived today. We spent the last couple of nights attaching the drawer fronts and installing the last bits of hardware. It’s finally done! It’s been over a year since we started tearing the old bathroom out to carve out the laundry closet, but it’s been worth it. Both the laundry room and the bathroom have exceeded my initial expectations. There are of course a couple things I would do differently, as is the case with every project, but we are very happy with the results.
Key Changes in this design:
- Eliminated bump out into garage (reduces width by 2 feet)
- Range moved from corner to garage wall
- Changed pantry cabinets to bases and uppers with a counter (right of fridge)
I’ve included a couple renderings of the latest kitchen design, one with cherry and one with painted cabinets (the island is white in both). A couple of points left for discussion include:
- Range placement along the garage wall (all the way to the right, or right in the middle)
- Counter space or full pantry to the right of the refrigerator
- Corner cabinet configuration
Feel free to leave a comment and let us know what you think.
More cabinet pics. The weather turned wet and very cold, so I could no longer do the finishing in the garage – which turned out alright as the garage isn’t well suited for finishing anyway (it’s very dusty). Mary Lou has been very tolerant of me turning the master bedroom into my finishing booth – so long as I get the last coat of the day done early enough that she doesn’t have to inhale solvents all night long :-) I definitely learned a lesson in the experience – let SprayKote do the finishing. They’re equipped for it and they do great work – it just takes me too long to get an hour here and hour there so I can apply each of the six total coats required, not to mention the 5 sandings and various buffings in between! So the drawer fronts are finish sanded, cleaned, and have one side and the edges stained. I hope to be able to install the drawer faces by the end of next weekend – marking the completion of the master bath! More bath pics Wish me luck.